Ferry to Udo Island

On the second day of my Jeju solo adventure I caught a bus from Jeju city to Seongsan harbor on the East side of the island. At Seongsan port I took a ferry to Udo, the small, rural ,cow-shaped island that is supposed to offer spectacular views of Jeju.

Being the only Western tourist on the ferry, I soon attracted some fans. The ferry was an exhilarating 11 minutes of clear sky and sea-spray. Udo island is as unspoilt as few places in Korea can claim. There are actually small multi-colored houses spread over the island, and about 1000 people make their livelihood off the products of the sea and a couple of tourist shops. The atmosphere was sleepy and serene.

We walked around Udo, stopping to look at the cliffs which jut out over the ocean, and the green pastures where many horses and cows were grazing. Two of the best views can be seen at Udobong peak and the Udo Lighthouse. I got to see the famous female divers out in the ocean, dipping underwater to find abalone, seaweed and shellfish. In Jeju, more than the rest of Korea, women are valued because they are able to support their families in this unusual manner. I like how they are called the "Mermaids of Jeju", its a very romantic description for a bunch of tough-as-nails country ajumas.

I swam at one of the quiet, beautiful beaches on Udo. After that, I took the ferry back to Seongsan and went up Sunrise Peak. After a hot and sticky walk, we were able to take in a view of green mountain, plummeting rocks and undisturbed sea. Not sunrise, but well worth it at any time of the day!

From Seongsan I took a bus ride to Seogwipo city, on the bottom of Jeju island. But there was no place in my chosen inn! Sunburnt, tired, sweaty and out of ideas, I practically walked into a motel which was about as desperate for a customer as I was for a room. Fortunately it was cheap-cheap. And the room was comfortable and cool, if you discount the frilly pink decor.

Despite Jeju being surprisingly un-English, the Koreans seem really eager to help tourists find their way. Its also amazing how much you can communicate with a handful of Korean words and a willingness to mime. I ate some Jeju seafood, which I didn't really like, and retreated to my room, where I slept like the dead.