Oeamri Folk Village of Asan

On Saturday, I went with my friend Gillian from Australia and Grace from Korea to the Oeamri living folk village in Asan.

Asan is the town next to Cheonan city. We were lucky enough to get a ride with Grace in her car. Bonus!

At the entrance of the village is the village totems, carved from cherry wood. They are believed to protect the village and provide good luck under the Shamanistic belief systems that many traditional Koreans ascribe to.

Despite the chilly weather (evident in the frozen water in the stream!), it was a beautiful day to be outside and appreciate traditional Korean architecture and way of life.

The Folk Village is interesting because it has preserved its traditional way of life. Most Koreans live in the fast-paced rat-race cities, but they still remember their roots and culture at places like the Folk Village.

The quaint straw-and-wood bridge leads to a village of about 50 straw houses (belonging to peasants) an 10 tiled houses (with Oriental-style "giwa" roofing) belonging to the nobility class which is called the "Yangban" in Korean.

It is called a "living folk museum" because local residents still live in many of the houses (although storming into their homes to take photos is discouraged!)

So I tried my hand at some traditional Korean games, and pounding rice with a giant mortar and pestle.

The village is located just under Seolhwasan mountain, which provides a lovely, rustic backdrop. Water flows around the village in artificial waterways, which provide water to the houses. I tried preparing cloth for a blanket by pounding on it (photo below), but this seemed like much too much work for a good night's sleep!

The folk village is also a popular location for Korean movies and TV-series, which use the houses and gardens as backdrop. You can imagine princess and princesses relaxing on the raised platform, and servants chattering in their quarters at the back of the house.

This picture shows a brightly-painted screen used during wedding ceremonies.

So, the traditional houses are made with paper walls and mud ceilings. Whoever decided that paper was a good insulator against -18 temperatures, should be shot!

It was a great trip, ended off with some delicious Korean food: Samgyeopsal, which is like Korean-style bacon in lettuce packages with red bean paste.

Thanks, Grace, for being such a gracious tour guide! (-; I'm sure translating 101 farm implements from Korean into English is not easy!

Korean random acts of kindness

Now, you know, I haven't always been very flattering about the people whom I have come to work with. Korean culture, their Confucian (confusion?) code and zombie-style work ethic have made me question what good I could ever do in being here. But today I reflect on just how Koreans have warmed my heart. It has made my stay here far more pleasant, and carried me through the difficult time that I have had recently.

Like my former high-school students who are off to university this year. They email me regularly with news about their life, relationships, worries. They take the effort to keep in touch, despite their imperfect English. It means a lot to be able to continue the relationships we started through the medium of e-mail.

And my Korean friends from church who go have coffee with me and talk so sincerely and hold my hand (Korean-style) and I feel like the only culture barrier between us is of my imagination. They don't find treat me like the mutant I can feel surrounded by pint-sized caramel-skinned dolls.

My adult classes (both my beginner and intermediate class), care for me so individually. They say "beware of cars" in this one-horse village, have parties for me when I feel homesick and treat me like a friend rather than someone who they pay exorbitant amounts to learn English from.

My grade 1's, who say in their little snatches of English "teacher don't go!" and are genuinely devastated about imminent departure. Starting my work hours with them every morning or afternoon has been an absolute delight.

I love the handwritten notes from my kid's moms delivered by their kids. Note the decorative cards and letters. Note the origami-style folds.

Random gifts from my kids. From the cute (stuffed toy animals, slippers, jewelry) to the bizarre (weird things made from ginseng, dried seafood, undecipherable skincare products), each one is appreciated because its a sign of their love and generosity. They do "shopping" at our school as reward for good work, and often buy us things with their "shopping dollars", despite the fact that all the goodies belongs to the school anyway!

The owner of Paris Baguette who always greets me with a friendly "Hello Jenni" and basically learnt his entire English vocabulary so he could always speak English to me in his shop. Not to mention my birthday cake from him. And my three other birthday cakes from students.

When kids say "Teacher is very cutie!!" Everything from my hairstyle to my furry shoes to my pink cheeks have been considered very cute(y) or beautiful by students and random villagers. The fame! (-; My naughtiest grade two boy basically composed a song to me which goes: "Teacher, your hair is like honey..!" He's eight, I think its still allowed!


The Koreans from my church have tried their best to reach out to, and befriend me, despite the fact that I always made a beeline for the other white-skinned foreigners. What was I thinking? Now I feel like I have a lot in common with many of the Koreans, but mutual shyness kept us distant for a long time. Oh well, I guess you can't learn all your lessons in one year.

Also, for this bus-hopping foreigner, being offered a lift by Koreans in any situation is a big deal. (Wow, driving in a car!) I never ask, because it could become rather exploitative (the Koreans all have cars and the foreigners don't). But they volunteer out of their own with thoughtful regularity.

Oh, and I love when the Koreans say that my accent is actually clearer than the Americans! Of course, I know this, but try to convince them. Because as we all know, the USA is the country of Shakespeare, Pope, Swift, Bronte, Austen, and even J.K. Rowling. (-; It is only through their incredible largess that the rest of the world can use "their language". Ha.

Probably my last month in Korea will be when I most strongly appreciate the warmth and compassion of the Korean people. Its not a bad way to leave.

Winter Wonderland

Late December and early January in Korea have been scenic and freezing.

With temperatures hovering between 2 and -5 degrees, it was only a matter of time before the snow fell, and then failed to melt. This happened dramatically as I was returning on Sunday from a weekend in Seoul with Sunny. You can see the snow starting to fall at the train station in the picture above.

So my village of Shingye-Ri was transformed into a winter wonderland, with snow both fresh and white.

The little river froze over.

And I braved the cold to try to get some action snow pictures.

My kids enjoyed the cold by playing in our school's bright colored ball pool. Aren't they cute?

I love how the traditional houses have snow collecting on their roofs.

The farmlands were also made unfarmable by a thick layer of the magic white stuff.

Not only does the snow look gorgeous, but it is fascinatingly powdery to touch, yielding beneath my fingertips. It was only a matter of time before I started making snowballs, and having no one to throw them at, threw them at trees and walls, like a kid.

You can see the tree outside of my apartment, dusted with falling snow, like icing sugar.

On the weekend in Seoul, I went to Insadong, an artsy shopping street which is the heart of traditional Korean crafts.

They even have a Starbucks, written in Korean traditional script.

Insadong has beautiful traditional houses, screens and delicious Korean food.

I bought a backpack-full of traditional crafts and gifts in Insadong, so perhaps, if you are good, you will receive a gift from this fascinating place.

I had to brave the snow to make it to church on Sunday. The steps of the Nazarene University were slippery under the falling snow.

Korea truly does have four distinct seasons, now that I've been in Korea for nearly a year, I've had the privilege to experience all of them.

So long for now - until we meet again.

Semper Fidelis

A tribute to my friend Liam Jordaan

Who died in a car crash

Driving from East London to Knysna

3 October 1982 – 30 December 2007

It starts with a heart as numb as ice
That turns to shattered glass.
It will end with the romance of eternal rest.
Stretching memories to last.
But while the ice is still on the wound
Let me pen a teary tribute
To the man who taught me : Semper Fi
And lived his creed: Always faithfully.

I once was a fool of peace, of sweet soft words that fall soothing like the rain. But now I release a savage beast, that stalks the ground where he could not remain.

It started like a lifeboat, in a sea of smiles
It rescued me from falsehood in deceptive times
It reeled me in, thought it was right
That he should be God revealed to me that night.

But no longer will I say the kind, tender creed of gentle goodbyes that rock no boats. It is an insult to his memory not to rage and tear and want to stop the spilling over of yesterdays.

It ended on a quiet morn
That took me away, took me far north.
If I had a diviner’s foresight I would have clung and cried and fought
Instead of waving weakly and waiting out the barren year
And relishing the reunion that was ripped when it drew near.
Terminal goodbyes
Terminated.

If I regretted my love
Regretted voicing each misguided part,
Now I am redeemed
Knowing that he could depart
Still wearing that cursed banner of my heart.

The sand and the water run the Ocean’s course
Sharing fleeting moments on an East Cape coast.
But sand runs dry and salt water slips back into the Ocean's path.
So we could not cement our bond,
But followed where we believed the current bore us
To remain or break free was not our choice.

Beautiful creature, struck so short in years! Can’t the sand and sea run together one more time before he disappears?

So instead of wise things, things that count
We whittled away God’s gift in foolish ways.
Loving and fighting and hurting and helping
And failing together to live up to what we were trying to be.
Dancing in, a happier year in a loaned house
We ransomed our hearts
Till the last.

But no longer will I let my anger rest beneath the brim. When I should’ve broken up those broken-down East Cape roads to stop him.

It ended with goodbye to one mistake
That drove him to the end of his earthly chain.
Then from that car, Liam was snatched away
To watch the wretched machine from his new heavenly plane.
Where he feels peace, knowledge, restraint
He leaves me with nothing except empty threats and tired replays.

So while I do not share his view from space
I'm isolated in my own disgrace.
Who knew what feelings we reconciled?
As loved brother and sister of the Chosen Child.
To calm the storm
To balm the great big chapped wretched debris of my heart.

His God, my God, what do you say about what transpired?
Do you delight in setting mortals up with hope and horizons and then to deny it?

He was a man of exquisite, gentle truth
He planted a seed, to flower, but the tree had no time to grow.
He will not be left in darkness, but will give birth to light
Always as faithful as the first who fought the good fight.
Semper Fi.

Korean election day - 19 Dec

So Wednesday was a freebie vacation for me, because it was the Korean presidential election. I spent the morning having coffee with my friend Julene, who has a heart for international ministries and for reconciliation and for Africa - who has, alas, gone back to her hometown in the US for the next couple of months. It was a spiritually enlightening conversation for both of us.

In the afternoon, I went to Italy Hair to have highlights put in my locks. They had done this about six months ago without the trauma usually associated with foreigners at Korean hair salons. But this time the stylist started slapping on peroxide indiscriminately, and I felt my heart sink into my socks.

So after a lot of furious gesturing, they realised that the resulting luminous carrot-orange was not the color I had in mind. They were very kind and apologetic and offered to fix it "service", which means, for free.

So rather than risk more highlight-horrors, I chose a light golden brown. As you can see, the result was rather nice, and of course, they styled my hair into Korean-style sumptuous spiral curls. If only I could get this effect every morning!

In the evening I attended a small party with my Intermediate Adult class. It was at Annie's house, a globe-trotting Korean who showed us all fantastic hospitality. She put out a delicious spread of seafood, sushi, kimbap, sausage, salad and real cheese! The cherry-on-top was that she had found some South African red wine at E-Mart, and this was supposed to help me feel less homesick. It was definitely good medicine for that.

So Annie (in the purple shirt) is going to South America in January, as this is the only continent she hasn't visited yet. She also told me about her intriguing cross-cultural romance, but I will just leave it at that. Annie is a great role-model and her Korean name means "talented at languages." She is certainly living up to it.

Wesley (in black and yellow) is a die-hard English student, who has recently got married. He and his wife are expecting their first child, so I think they are experiencing a lot of excitement and nerves. Wesley has been called a perfectionist, but I think he is just a hard worker who has high standards for himself. I guess you have to aim for the moon, if you want to reach the stars.

Jin-Ho (in black clothes) is usually quite quiet and respectful. He is a bachelor who seems married only to his computer and the ladies in my class take every opportunity to tease him about finding a wife. He also loves cleaning cars and said that if he ever did volunteer work, he would do laundry work in a disaster area. (He also likes pizza very, very much.)

Hyun-Joo (red shirt) is a mom of two young kids and she has a lovely jazzy voice. She wants to study English at university and become an English teacher for Korean kids. I think she will make a great teacher, because she is very caring and able to express herself well in English. She is looking forward to sending her kids to Kindergarden so that she can have some peace and quiet at home!

All in all, I had a lovely evening with my class and appreciated their concern for me. They really helped me to see how hospitable and warm Koreans can be. I know it can be intimidating for Koreans to speak to foreigners, but when they reach out to us it definitely makes coming to Korea worthwhile.

Korean wedding weekend fun

So Saturday was Calvin's wedding. He was in my Bible Study when I first arrived in Korea and he's a lovely guy. A whole bunch of church friends went to his wedding, which was in a little chapel in the middle of nowhere. Now, unfortunately the Koreans sometimes do a "Western style" wedding, which is like a bad impression of what they think an American or English wedding is like. So there is a white dress and a pastor, but it all happens quickly with slightly tacky edges.

For example, the wedding cake is fake except for the top layer, and they shoot streamers out of trumpets. And the bride comes down the church on a cart through the mist, which is pumped through the floor of the church ala phantom of the opera.

But Calvin looked trendy, and Angela looked gorgeous. And although I didn't understand much of the Korean message, it seemed very sincere.

And supporting a friend in making such an important step is of course, mandatory.

After having photos taken with the wedding couple, we went to the lunch buffet. The food was truly delicious, with Korean, Japanese and other Asian cuisines represented.

Then the couple took part in the intimate, traditional Korean part of the ceremony. They exchanged their tux and gown for bright red and blue hanbok. They then perform a series of gestures full of symbolism, that as Westerners, we do not truly understand, although it was beautiful to watch.

For example, the mother-in-law throws jujubes into the bride's skirt at this time, which means that they wish them to have many children. Jujubes signify riches, honor, and male heirs in Korea. There is also a lot of bowing to everyone, and the groom has to bow to the guests, to his in-laws and to his bride in an extravagant head-touching-the-floor style.

So now it is almost mid-winter and really cold. If you don't believe me, check out the ice-sculptures outside our downtown shopping centre, Yawoori. These blocks are solid ice! They have been left there for a couple of weeks, and show no sign of melting.

On Sunday I said goodbye to Betsy, our church musical star and close friend, who is going back to Redding, Northern California. Betsy is one cool chick, relaxed, creative and with no hang-ups. I will miss her a lot, but hope that my small attempts to teach her Xhosa and Afrikaans have left their mark!

So each Tuesday morning we have a "girls group" bible study at Starbucks.

In this necessary injection of sanity, we have been discussing how to live out our faith in a culture so different from our own. Its been really interesting hearing everyone's story. Although we are all English teachers in Korea, we come from very different backgrounds and countries. But what we have in common is that we are all trying to make a difference in Korea, and act as authentic Christians who are messed-up and flawed in a world that needs God.

You must be the change you want to see in the world. -Gandhi